Great, blew the HG in my Mustang :(

[JC316]

Yep, that's right, the one that I rebuilt back in May. I was showing off, acting like an ass and when I got it back, it was blowing white smoke out the tail pipe. Then it started loosing coolant, then it started smoking worse, and worse. Drained a gallon of coolant in 40 miles. Did compressions tests got the following:

1 - 125PSI
2 - 105PSI
3 - 120PSI
4 - 175PSI
5 - 180PSi
6 - 175PSI
7 - 175PSI
8 - 175PSI

Also have coolant in the exhaust pipe. Gonna throw a Mark VIII motor in it, get a nice boost in power.

[Wile E]

Or, take the opportunity to do a full rebuild, and throw the new Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads on it. :D

[JC316]

Or, take the opportunity to do a full rebuild, and throw the new Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads on it. :D

Don't have the cash for that. At my local pick U pull, a long block is $119. I would just toss a PI motor in, but finding them isn't exactly easy. I can find Gen 2 Mark's out the wazoo in there though.

[Wile E]

You might need to flash or swap your ECU to use a Mark motor. That could provide for some wiring headaches.

Not to mention, you'll have to swap the flex plate for a flywheel so it will bolt to your transmission. Decent swap idea, but it's not completely straightforward, so be prepared for some headaches.

[JC316]

You might need to flash or swap your ECU to use a Mark motor. That could provide for some wiring headaches.

I have asked around about this, there are several people that have done the swap, the GT computer should control it fine and the wiring harness is the same, but you have to lengthen the wires a bit. I will be getting the engine out of a Gen 2 Mark so the intake will work, the only thing that wont are the IMRC's, but I should be able to figure something out with them.

[Wile E]

I have asked around about this, there are several people that have done the swap, the GT computer should control it fine and the wiring harness is the same, but you have to lengthen the wires a bit. I will be getting the engine out of a Gen 2 Mark so the intake will work, the only thing that wont are the IMRC's, but I should be able to figure something out with them.

Cross post, see edit above.

And just grab an IMRC delete kit, and completely do away with them.

[JC316]

Cross post, see edit above.

And just grab an IMRC delete kit, and completely do away with them.

Probably what I will do. I doubt I will see much acceleration loss since I have the 3.27's and the manual tranny. The Romeo crank and the Mark VIII crank use the 6 bolt fly wheel, so I will salvage those from my 2V. The cobra has the forged crank that uses the 8 bolt.

[DaMulta]

I need to put a new motor in my mark. Some thing went wrong down inside of it, and I have no idea what it is other than it's a knocking sound......

From what I have read the GT computer will control the mark motor. Or vice versa.

[JC316]

I need to put a new motor in my mark. Some thing went wrong down inside of it, and I have no idea what it is other than it's a knocking sound......

From what I have read the GT computer will control the mark motor. Or vice versa.

I am well versed in these motors and I am willing to bet that there is nothing serious wrong with it. Check your timing chain tensioners and potentially the lash adjusters. They are the most common source of a knock. Is it a fast paced knock that is higher pitched, or is it a slower knock that is lower pitched?

[Wile E]

Too bad you can't find any terminator motors for cheap. Or maybe even one of the new 3 valves. lol.

[JC316]

Too bad you can't find any terminator motors for cheap. Or maybe even one of the new 3 valves. lol.

I could build the SHIT out of a 2V motor for the price of those damned things. You would swear the block was made of gold by the pricing they have. Cheapest Terminator is $3600 with a $2000 core....

[Wile E]

I could build the SHIT out of a 2V motor for the price of those damned things. You would swear the block was made of gold by the pricing they have. Cheapest Terminator is $3600 with a $2000 core....

It's the all-forged rotating assembly and the blower. Not to mention the numbers linking them to the Cobra. That will make a huge difference in collectability down the road.

Using the same quality bottom end on the 2 valve will still be hella expensive. You would save some money by building a 2 valve, but you would have a lot less potential, and a less desirable motor in the future.

There are Pros/cons to each setup. $5600 on a 2 valve doesn't equate to an absolute killer either.

[JC316]

It's the all-forged rotating assembly and the blower. Not to mention the numbers linking them to the Cobra. That will make a huge difference in collectability down the road.

Using the same quality bottom end on the 2 valve will still be hella expensive. You would save some money by building a 2 valve, but you would have a lot less potential, and a less desirable motor in the future.

There are Pros/cons to each setup. $5600 on a 2 valve doesn't equate to an absolute killer either.

True, but that $5600 doesn't include the ECU, wiring harness, T-56 tranny, or anything else to make it work. After all that I would be looking at around $8000. Found a Vortech V2 supercharger kit on craigslist for $1900, get stage 2 heads with blower cams, forged rods, ARP main and head studs, and 3.73 gears and you have yourself a beast for around $5500.

[DaMulta]

I am well versed in these motors and I am willing to bet that there is nothing serious wrong with it. Check your timing chain tensioners and potentially the lash adjusters. They are the most common source of a knock. Is it a fast paced knock that is higher pitched, or is it a slower knock that is lower pitched?

fast paced with a lower pitch. I took it to the Lincoln guys, and they took the heads off. They told me they have seen this problem before, and really dug down into the motor to never find what the problem was.

Drivers side

[JC316]

fast paced with a lower pitch. I took it to the Lincoln guys, and they took the heads off. They told me they have seen this problem before, and really dug down into the motor to never find what the problem was.

Drivers side

Sounds like a lash adjuster. My mustang knocked like this since the day I got it, which is one reason I am changing it out. I have a video of what mine sounded like, uploading now.

[DaMulta]

I have another motor, but I don't have a picker to get it out....

[JC316]

Here you go, you can hear it start at 19 seconds on the video.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/th_SDC13229.jpg (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/?action=view&current=SDC13229.flv)

[Wile E]

True, but that $5600 doesn't include the ECU, wiring harness, T-56 tranny, or anything else to make it work. After all that I would be looking at around $8000. Found a Vortech V2 supercharger kit on craigslist for $1900, get stage 2 heads with blower cams, forged rods, ARP main and head studs, and 3.73 gears and you have yourself a beast for around $5500.
What's the price on the Twisted Wedge heads? They don't require a core, so they could just be a small increase over ported stockers.

EDIT: Nvm, found them. They're just under $2k assembled. About $400 more than the typical max ported stock castings, but also produces more power, and has yet even more room left for porting. But I'm not even 100% sure that $1600 price includes the core on the ported stockers.

[DaMulta]

nope mine is a harder knock that flows with the motor faster. It sounds like a piston is broke or bent, but it is neither one of those.

[Steevo]

sounds like a clogged hyd tappet, run half a quart of ATF in the engine for a couple hundred miles and then change the oil.

[erocker]

Here you go, you can hear it start at 19 seconds on the video.



Since the noise more audible during decceleration, it could very well be the timing chain making the noise, thus the tensioner could be bad.

[JC316]

Since the noise more audible during decceleration, it could very well be the timing chain making the noise, thus the tensioner could be bad.

Been there, done that. Changed the chains, the guides, and the tensioners. Good guess though, it was the first thing that I checked. I also changed the main bearings and the rod bearings. The only things left are the lash adjusters and the wrist pins. Now you see the reason that I am changing out the entire motor, rather than just the head gaskets.

[1Kurgan1]

I think this is a great idea, should save you some cash and give you something unique. I gotta say, the 4V motors just sound a lot better than the 2V's also.

[JC316]

I think this is a great idea, should save you some cash and give you something unique. I gotta say, the 4V motors just sound a lot better than the 2V's also.

Yep, that is my hope.

Got the engine out and the first pics. Took me about 4 hours to get it pulled.

Couple of shots of the big bastard.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14321.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14320.jpg

Me in triumph
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14322.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14323.jpg

One GREASY engine bay
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14324.jpg

After an air powered paint thinner sprayer and a pressure washer.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14327.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14328.jpg

[DaMulta]

Are you pulling the motor out of the mark next to it?

[JC316]

Are you pulling the motor out of the mark next to it?

No, that is my moms car. Good eye on spotting it. That is a 96 base model Mark.

[Steevo]

Pull your valve covers and check lash.

[JC316]

Pull your valve covers and check lash.

Not much point anymore, that motor isn't going back in the car anyway.

[1Kurgan1]

I envy the ease of work on RWD vehicles :( Looks like it's moving along nice for just a few hours in. Did you already pick up the 32v or still got to do that? And if so or if you haven't what kinda mileage motors are you looking at, always nice to get something thats got a bit less wear on it.

[JC316]

I envy the ease of work on RWD vehicles :( Looks like it's moving along nice for just a few hours in. Did you already pick up the 32v or still got to do that? And if so or if you haven't what kinda mileage motors are you looking at, always nice to get something thats got a bit less wear on it.

I love the RWD, it's so damn easy to do work on them. Put many an hour on FWD cars. Not yet, I am going lincoln hunting on Saturday. Anything with sub 150K will suit me fine. Here in Texas, 150K is considered lower miles.

[3991v]

I love the RWD, it's so damn easy to do work on them. Put many an hour on FWD cars. Not yet, I am going lincoln hunting on Saturday. Anything with sub 150K will suit me fine. Here in Texas, 150K is considered lower miles.

Wow, 150k is pretty high up here in PA :p

[JC316]

Wow, 150k is pretty high up here in PA :p

Yeah, but in TX, most cities are 50+ miles away. So yeah, it's EASY to put up 20K miles a year.

[Wile E]

Yeah, but in TX, most cities are 50+ miles away. So yeah, it's EASY to put up 20K miles a year.

It's not so much that, but our hilly terrain, and our weather that tears cars up. I still say you build the engine with Trick Flow heads and all forged internals. :D

[JC316]

It's not so much that, but our hilly terrain, and our weather that tears cars up. I still say you build the engine with Trick Flow heads and all forged internals. :D


Yep, it's all flat and dry down here in Texas. No rust or vastly fluctuating temps, but high miles.

If I were going to build a mustang, I would find a fox body, the 5.0 is so much cheaper to modify.

[1Kurgan1]

It's not so much that, but our hilly terrain, and our weather that tears cars up. I still say you build the engine with Trick Flow heads and all forged internals. :D

Freaking winter and salt and glaciers for making hills. :/

[Wile E]

Yep, it's all flat and dry down here in Texas. No rust or vastly fluctuating temps, but high miles.

If I were going to build a mustang, I would find a fox body, the 5.0 is so much cheaper to modify.

Quit making excuses. Worry about speed, not cost. That's the way to be. :D

[1Kurgan1]

It depends what he's getting the 4V for, but if it's a pick n pull its probably dirt cheap, if he can go faster for less, thats always the best. And beyond that FI is uaully the best bang for the buck power there is, granted I have heard the 4.6's don't have the strongest bottom end.

[DaMulta]

Super charger super charger lol

[Wile E]

It depends what he's getting the 4V for, but if it's a pick n pull its probably dirt cheap, if he can go faster for less, thats always the best. And beyond that FI is uaully the best bang for the buck power there is, granted I have heard the 4.6's don't have the strongest bottom end.

Yeah, but FI will work even better on a free flowing top end with a built bottom end to back it.

[JC316]

It depends what he's getting the 4V for, but if it's a pick n pull its probably dirt cheap, if he can go faster for less, thats always the best. And beyond that FI is uaully the best bang for the buck power there is, granted I have heard the 4.6's don't have the strongest bottom end.

$119 is how much I will be paying for the long black :)

[1Kurgan1]

Yeah, but FI will work even better on a free flowing top end with a built bottom end to back it.

And it would work better on a completely built motor, and in a more aero dynamic car, and in a lighter car, and with slicks, and lexan windows. :p

Free flowing heads, especially the ones you listed are almost the price of FI, and the FI gains would be far greater, thats all I'm saying, plus the 4.6 4V already is a higher flowing setup over the 5.0, and for $119, thats a really cheap hp gain.

The way I look at it is, get the bang for the buck everytime. Right off the bat, FI will add the most power for the investment. Adding heads will add a nice gain, but if you grab FI, then put the heads on after the FI, the gain from the heads after the FI will most likely be greater than the gain before the FI, because it's now pushing more air. Heads are in my mind a supporting mod. Just like you you had a stock car and were planning to be pushing a ton of boost later on down the line, you wouldn't go out and get a massive fuel pump, injectors, and 3" exhaust. You would get the FI run a lower boost, pick up the rest then crank the boost. At least thats how I would do it.

$119 is how much I will be paying for the long black :)

Very nice, almost should have done this a long time ago, thats like free hp. You going to do anything while it's out of the car and even easier to access then it normally is? :p

[Wile E]

And it would work better on a completely built motor, and in a more aero dynamic car, and in a lighter car, and with slicks, and lexan windows. :p

Free flowing heads, especially the ones you listed are almost the price of FI, and the FI gains would be far greater, thats all I'm saying, plus the 4.6 4V already is a higher flowing setup over the 5.0, and for $119, thats a really cheap hp gain.

The way I look at it is, get the bang for the buck everytime. Right off the bat, FI will add the most power for the investment. Adding heads will add a nice gain, but if you grab FI, then put the heads on after the FI, the gain from the heads after the FI will most likely be greater than the gain before the FI, because it's now pushing more air. Heads are in my mind a supporting mod. Just like you you had a stock car and were planning to be pushing a ton of boost later on down the line, you wouldn't go out and get a massive fuel pump, injectors, and 3" exhaust. You would get the FI run a lower boost, pick up the rest then crank the boost. At least thats how I would do it.



Very nice, almost should have done this a long time ago, thats like free hp. You going to do anything while it's out of the car and even easier to access then it normally is? :p

Heads are never a supporting mod. Depending on your FI setup, the head/cams/intake you choose dictate the blower/turbo you should choose. Many high end FI setups don't appreciate running at low boost, especially turbos. Everything must be planned in advance. It's all a package. On a Mustang destined for ridiculous power , I would most certainly build the engine first, then build my FI system around my combo. If you are looking for a quick 450-500 HP, by all means, grab a FI kit first. If you are looking to build a 9 sec, daily-driver-reliable street/strip machine, you build the motor first.

And I would buy the 3" exhaust right away, btw. Lose power down low on the NA setup, but still gain it where it counts in a race, and I won't be buying an exhaust twice that way. The pump and injectors I would buy if they were a good deal, but wouldn't install them till needed.

And $2000 FI setups don't have what it takes to go 9's reliably, so your point is moot, really.

Now, like I said, if my goals were more modest, then yeah, I would likely do FI first. That's kinda the way I want to go for my daily driver Civic. Swap to a B16 (or preferably a B18C, if I can find a good deal on one) and a 3" exhaust, then a GT30RS setup and 3"downpipe w/cat the following year, then a built engine and high boost the year after that, with 400-450Hp in mind.

If I planned on making 600HP out of it tho, the engine would be built first.

Even after all this discussion, we still haven't touched on the fact that there are people that much prefer going the NA route.

[1Kurgan1]

Oh I agree for any high end setup planning is very crucial. But that also requires down time on the car, that wouldn't be something you would be driving, then investing, driving then investing. You would put that under thek nife and do it all at once here, and with his $119 long block investment, I don't think he has the money for that :p.

So I'm just saying, he's picking up some cheap power. I don't think he's worried about going 9's either, and didn't say a 2k kit would be good for it as most basic kits are already over 2k. And to hit 9's most vehicles will need a lot of work beyond heads/FI to get there. So that really had nothing to do with my point. Just saying he's on a budget and anything will make it faster. But I would rather buy parts that bottle neck my performance, then uncork them for some real nice gains.

Like with my car this next tax season. I have all bolt ons besides a IC, MAF, TB, so thats what I'm going to get. With that I could drop to the smallest SC pulley out there (2.55"). But that would blow my stock tranny clear out of the water as that would be 410 - 430whpish. So thats a bottleneck, I will instead go with a 3.0" or 3.2" pulley and shoot for 330 - 350whp. Pkay it safe for a year and hopefulyl start putting togather a tranny the next winter. Once thats done and in, then drop to the 2.55" So bottleneck it with hp from the FI, then uncork it with a tranny and more boost. After that the M90 is maxed out and I would need to look to a turbo, but with the tranny done and all the bolt ons I could grab a turbo and shoot for high 10's pretty easily.

Also he could for sure go the NA route, either way, that 4.6 is a sweet buy for the price, and it would take a bit of work to get the power to dollar ratio he's getting from it from a 5.0. With the 32v he shouldn't need to worry about heads for a while as they flow better, working on things like headers and other things that are bolt ons to help feed the air pump more air faster should net real nice gains. And I still stand by 4.6L 32v exhaust makes me drool, and I'm not really a Mustang fan, but they just sound so nice.

[JC316]

Oh I agree for any high end setup planning is very crucial. But that also requires down time on the car, that wouldn't be something you would be driving, then investing, driving then investing. You would put that under thek nife and do it all at once here, and with his $119 long block investment, I don't think he has the money for that :p.

So I'm just saying, he's picking up some cheap power. I don't think he's worried about going 9's either, and didn't say a 2k kit would be good for it as most basic kits are already over 2k. And to hit 9's most vehicles will need a lot of work beyond heads/FI to get there. So that really had nothing to do with my point. Just saying he's on a budget and anything will make it faster. But I would rather buy parts that bottle neck my performance, then uncork them for some real nice gains.

Like with my car this next tax season. I have all bolt ons besides a IC, MAF, TB, so thats what I'm going to get. With that I could drop to the smallest SC pulley out there (2.55"). But that would blow my stock tranny clear out of the water as that would be 410 - 430whpish. So thats a bottleneck, I will instead go with a 3.0" or 3.2" pulley and shoot for 330 - 350whp. Pkay it safe for a year and hopefulyl start putting togather a tranny the next winter. Once thats done and in, then drop to the 2.55" So bottleneck it with hp from the FI, then uncork it with a tranny and more boost. After that the M90 is maxed out and I would need to look to a turbo, but with the tranny done and all the bolt ons I could grab a turbo and shoot for high 10's pretty easily.

Also he could for sure go the NA route, either way, that 4.6 is a sweet buy for the price, and it would take a bit of work to get the power to dollar ratio he's getting from it from a 5.0. With the 32v he shouldn't need to worry about heads for a while as they flow better, working on things like headers and other things that are bolt ons to help feed the air pump more air faster should net real nice gains. And I still stand by 4.6L 32v exhaust makes me drool, and I'm not really a Mustang fan, but they just sound so nice.

Oh yeah, those B heads on the 93-98 4V engines flow like no other. With boost and high revs, they are about unbeatable.

[1Kurgan1]

Yeah, hows the swap going? You already in progress? I'm curious to hear how it runs on the GT stock tune.

[JC316]

Yeah, hows the swap going? You already in progress? I'm curious to hear how it runs on the GT stock tune.

Just picked up the motor today. Got it out of a 97 LSC. Looks to be pretty good, I am going to start swapping the pieces I need, clutch/wiring/oil pan over tomorrow. Should be near completion by next weekend.

[1Kurgan1]

Hows the progress so far?

[JC316]

Hows the progress so far?

Well, I have:

Swapped the oil pan
Rebuilt my motor mount that was broken
Installed some ported 99 cobra exhaust manifolds
Made a frankenpipe for my EGR using parts from the Mark VIII and GT pipes
Rigged up the vacuum hoses
Extended and installed the wiring harness
Installed the new throttle cable
Swapped the fly wheel over.

I discovered that the clutch was down to about 10% life left, so I had to order a new one, it will be delivered tomorrow and I should be able to finish out the install by Monday.

[Wile E]

Well, I have:

Swapped the oil pan
Rebuilt my motor mount that was broken
Installed some ported 99 cobra exhaust manifolds
Made a frankenpipe for my EGR using parts from the Mark VIII and GT pipes
Rigged up the vacuum hoses
Extended and installed the wiring harness
Installed the new throttle cable
Swapped the fly wheel over.

I discovered that the clutch was down to about 10% life left, so I had to order a new one, it will be delivered tomorrow and I should be able to finish out the install by Monday.Very nice. How straightforward was it?

[JC316]

Very nice. How straightforward was it?

Most of it was pretty straight forward. The wiring harness was simple enough to splice. The dipstick had to be bent slightly to allow clearance for the motor mount, but nothing drastic. The hardest part was the EGR tube, the Mark VIII used a size larger pipe than the mustang. So I needed the part of the tube that screwed into the Mark VIII EGR and I needed the part of the GT tube that screwed into the exhaust manifolds. So, my dad hacked the two in half, jammed the smaller GT pipe in the larger Mark VIII pipe and welded them together. The flywheel bolted right on and the GT accessories save the alternator are bolt on as well.

My new ford racing King Cobra clutch comes in tomorrow and I am hoping to have the car running again by Monday.

[Wile E]

Most of it was pretty straight forward. The wiring harness was simple enough to splice. The dipstick had to be bent slightly to allow clearance for the motor mount, but nothing drastic. The hardest part was the EGR tube, the Mark VIII used a size larger pipe than the mustang. So I needed the part of the tube that screwed into the Mark VIII EGR and I needed the part of the GT tube that screwed into the exhaust manifolds. So, my dad hacked the two in half, jammed the smaller GT pipe in the larger Mark VIII pipe and welded them together. The flywheel bolted right on and the GT accessories save the alternator are bolt on as well.

My new ford racing King Cobra clutch comes in tomorrow and I am hoping to have the car running again by Monday.

How much was the clutch?

[JC316]

How much was the clutch?

$125 shipped New in Box.

[Wile E]

Not bad at all. Pretty cost effective upgrade this round. So, what does round 2 have in store?

[JC316]

Not bad at all. Pretty cost effective upgrade this round. So, what does round 2 have in store?

Round 2 will be gears. A set of 3.73's on that high revving 4V should be quite nice.

[Wile E]

Round 2 will be gears. A set of 3.73's on that high revving 4V should be quite nice.

Ahh yes. Good choice. Don't forget to grab the correct speedo gear. Any plans to flash the ecu to maximize for the 4v?

[JC316]

Ahh yes. Good choice. Don't forget to grab the correct speedo gear. Any plans to flash the ecu to maximize for the 4v?

Absolutely, but when I get some more cash. I have been assured that it will run fine on the stock tune, but I won't get all the juice that I should.

[DaMulta]

I think you should install a really high performance fuel pump in it.

I installed one in my mark, and it was just wow that did that?

[JC316]

I think you should install a really high performance fuel pump in it.

I installed one in my mark, and it was just wow that did that?

The Mustang fuel pump if pretty strong. The only time you have to upgrade it is when you go FI, then it's just an SVT Focus pump.

[1Kurgan1]

Nice, sounds like it's moving along good, and good timing to, would have had to drop the trans anyways to change out the clutch soon.

[DaMulta]

The Mustang fuel pump if pretty strong. The only time you have to upgrade it is when you go FI, then it's just an SVT Focus pump.

http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/MarkVIII/ViewDetails/fuelpump.html

http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/

[JC316]

Nice, sounds like it's moving along good, and good timing to, would have had to drop the trans anyways to change out the clutch soon.

Yep, I had been noticing that the clutch didn't hook up quite like it used to. Anyway, I have the entire motor built and it's going in tomorrow. Then I will just have to splice the fuel lines and it should be ready to rock.

[1Kurgan1]

Get some pictures, sounds like it could be up and running tomorrow, RWD should be a pretty straight forward drop in if you got the wiring all ready to go.

[JC316]

Get some pictures, sounds like it could be up and running tomorrow, RWD should be a pretty straight forward drop in if you got the wiring all ready to go.

Should be, but it's currently whooping my ass. I left the tranny in the car and now the new engine isn't wanting to bolt. I am taking a lunch break, but I am going to slide the tranny back, mount the motor, then slide the tranny forward.

[1Kurgan1]

Got to love how that works, sometimes you have to find a way to make it fit, damn cars.

[JC316]

Got to love how that works, sometimes you have to find a way to make it fit, damn cars.

Seven hours..... Seven fucking hours just to get the engine attached to the K member, and the tranny attached to the engine....... This big bastard is a clearance nightmare. Me and my dad finally got it, but it was a bit of a nightmare. Tomorrow should be the simple part.

[Wile E]

I think you should install a really high performance fuel pump in it.

I installed one in my mark, and it was just wow that did that?

http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/MarkVIII/ViewDetails/fuelpump.html

http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/

Absolutely 100% unneeded on a stock engine. Won't be a single benefit to horsepower at all. 0 gain. The only time a better fuel pump helps is when you are making a shitload more power than stock.

[JC316]

Absolutely 100% unneeded on a stock engine. Won't be a single benefit to horsepower at all. 0 gain. The only time a better fuel pump helps is when you are making a shitload more power than stock.

Yep, forced induction/giggle gas is when all the mustang guys upgrade the fuel pump.

[DaMulta]

Absolutely 100% unneeded on a stock engine. Won't be a single benefit to horsepower at all. 0 gain. The only time a better fuel pump helps is when you are making a shitload more power than stock.

You would think so, but when I installed one it would burn the tires in 3rd gear.

[JC316]

You would think so, but when I installed one it would burn the tires in 3rd gear.

Your fuel pump could have already been on it's way out. When you changed it, it was delivering the proper amount of fuel. Without tuning the computer's air/fuel ratio and getting bigger injectors, you won't take advantage of the added flow.

[1Kurgan1]

You would think so, but when I installed one it would burn the tires in 3rd gear.

My Lincoln would barely light them up in 1st being fwd, granted 20hp down from the Mark, and even then, it wouldn't do it too well.

[JC316]

My Lincoln would barely light them up in 1st being fwd, granted 20hp down from the Mark, and even then, it wouldn't do it too well.

What kind of lincoln was it? Continental?

Edit:
NVM, FWD = Conti.

Yeah, they can be quick, but they don't have the same amount of juice that the Mark VIII does.

[1Kurgan1]

Yeah, but even then, my GTX can't lay down rubber in 3rd, and that should be putting down more power to the tires than a Conti has at the flywheel. Also couldn't lay down rubber in my SHO in 3rd, even with a 7k clutch dump, but could in the rain at 55mph in 2nd gear without a clutch dump, once it hit 4k tires would start breaking loose.

Anyways, hows it going? Got to be close and eager to drive that thing.

[JC316]

Yeah, but even then, my GTX can't lay down rubber in 3rd, and that should be putting down more power to the tires than a Conti has at the flywheel. Also couldn't lay down rubber in my SHO in 3rd, even with a 7k clutch dump, but could in the rain at 55mph in 2nd gear without a clutch dump, once it hit 4k tires would start breaking loose.

Anyways, hows it going? Got to be close and eager to drive that thing.

Yeah, I have had 2 Mark VIII's and neither one could bark 3rd. I have seen them with an upgraded tranny and a stall converter that could.

Very close. Got it in, got the exhaust done, got everything bolted down tight. Only thing that I am missing is the fuel system and the cooling system and it should be ready to rock.

[1Kurgan1]

Nice, all the easy stuff left then, what have you been driving in the meantime?

[JC316]

Nice, all the easy stuff left then, what have you been driving in the meantime?

I have had my options 96 Saturn Sl1, 98 Cadillac Seville, or a 96 Mark VIII. However, the caddy is acting up, and the Mark has it's dash out currently in replacing the blend door motor.

[Wile E]

I can bark the tires in 3rd in my Spec V with a proper power shift. It's not an auto tho.

You would think so, but when I installed one it would burn the tires in 3rd gear.

Just like JC said, the only way that it could've given you more power is if the original was getting too weak to supply the fuel your car needed, or the intake screen could've been clogged on the original. Either way, the original was bad, and that's why you got more power from a new pump.

[DaMulta]

He also said he owned two marks that could not do it. I have also owned two of them never one would bark the tires in 3ed. It's almost as if they don't install a fuel pump that the strength that it really needs. After I installed a high grade pump it would burn the tires in 3ed.

Both my Marks also had a shift kit installed in them, and tweaked to make them shift harder.

[Wile E]

He also said he owned two marks that could not do it. I have also owned two of them never one would bark the tires in 3ed. It's almost as if they don't install a fuel pump that the strength that it really needs. After I installed a high grade pump it would burn the tires in 3ed.

Both my Marks also had a shift kit installed in them, and tweaked to make them shift harder.

A healthy stock pump is more than enough for even a mildly modified Mark. Again, if changing the pump gave you power, the stock one was failing.

[1Kurgan1]

I can bark the tires in 3rd in my Spec V with a proper power shift. It's not an auto tho.

Thats a really light car though. I had some really sticky Fuzions on my 91 Accord which was a measly 145hp and I could lay a patch shifting into second, without power shifting or clutch dumping, just a quick shift. Was actually easier to do that in that weak Accord than it was in any of my SHO's :mad:

[Wile E]

Thats a really light car though. I had some really sticky Fuzions on my 91 Accord which was a measly 145hp and I could lay a patch shifting into second, without power shifting or clutch dumping, just a quick shift. Was actually easier to do that in that weak Accord than it was in any of my SHO's :mad:

It's a combination of the car being light, fwd, and a torque monster (as far as 4 cyl cars are concerned) all with a close ratio 6 speed that lets it bark 3rd on occasion. This is with a helical limited slip, and some Kumho Ecsta ASX's. It does have to be an absolutely perfect 2-3 powershift tho. It won't do it 100% of the time. Now, with tires that are less sticky than the Kumho's, it will bark 3rd every time. Again tho, everything is stacked in the car's favor except the limited slip.

I was just mentioning it in passing, since the conversation seemed to be going that way a little.

[1Kurgan1]

Oh right, didnt mean it to come off as the wrong tone, just saying I could see it happening. with a lighter car, and with FWD since the weight transfers off the power wheels. I would have never believed it if I had my Accord, since thats the lightest car I ever had, but when I left down marks all the way through 1st, dropped 2nd and laid some more, I about crapped my pants. I would taunt my friend who had a mild 400 in his 79 Auto T/A since he couldnt lay marks down at the speed I could :p

[JC316]

It's ALIVE!! I still have about a half dozen things to do/fix, but it does run and quite well.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/th_SDC14647.jpg (http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/?action=view&current=SDC14647.flv)

[1Kurgan1]

Sounds nice, need to get it piped now.

[JC316]

Sounds nice, need to get it piped now.

No, I need to get it running correctly now. Then I can worry about that. Plus it's a whole lot louder in person than on the camera.

[1Kurgan1]

Psh, running correctly is no fun, being loud is :p

Wheres the exhaust leaks coming from?

[JC316]

Psh, running correctly is no fun, being loud is :p

Wheres the exhaust leaks coming from?

Kinda embarrassing..... Forgot to tighten the EGR tube down. Yeah and the camera doesn't do it justice. A friend of mine has a C5 vette with a Borla cat back, mine is almost as loud as his.

[1Kurgan1]

Thats not too bad, I put a whole tranny back together, put it back in the car, bolted up the subframe, dropped it to the ground fired it up and couldn't shift. Then I remember I forgot to put in a C-clip in the trans.... Had to drop it all again for a 5 cent part :mad:

[Steevo]

Ouch.


This weekend is the Celis turn to go in. The clutch on it is so bad now I can slip it in second. I get to see what damage my brother in law did to the clutch and probably the flywheel.

[JC316]

Thats not too bad, I put a whole tranny back together, put it back in the car, bolted up the subframe, dropped it to the ground fired it up and couldn't shift. Then I remember I forgot to put in a C-clip in the trans.... Had to drop it all again for a 5 cent part :mad:

Oh shit, that sucks. Did you do a rebuild on it, or something else? I would love to learn how to rebuild transmissions, but they are pretty complicated.

[1Kurgan1]

I welded the differential pins down to the bolts on the outer ring of the diff. SHO's are famous for letting diff pins fly. I had it happen 300 miles after I bought my 91, got a tranny from a friend and welded those pins. Had some other issues so that car sat for a bit. Then I drove my 92 SHO and that popped a diff pin. :( Then I got a Mazda 626 for $75 from my Uncle (an ATX) and that popped a diff pin 4 days later...

Even with welding and doing literally 0 burnouts that diff pin worked its way back out though :( The seal between the 2 casing halfs got a leak ad it was pretty bad, so I think thats what caused it. I had to keep filling it and I'm sure it go low now and then and added heat to it weaking the straps I had welded in.

I'm not sure about Auto trannys, they scare me, but the MTX from a SHO honestly wasn't that bad. Took me an hour or 2 to get it down the first time, but when I pulled it out to put in that c-clip I literally cracked the casing apart and tore apart the entire trans, then put it back together in less than 30min.

[JC316]

Got it running 100%. 0-80. It was wet out and traction is hard to come by, but I put my 0-60 at around 5.8 seconds on the GT computer tune.

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/?action=view&current=SDC14658.flv

[Wile E]

Holy short shifting Batman. I'm sure in dry weather, not short shifting, and not granny shifting, and a proper launch, you could get that 0-60 down much, MUCH lower.

[Steevo]

With a rocket pack and some NOS.

[1Kurgan1]

Got it running 100%. 0-80. It was wet out and traction is hard to come by, but I put my 0-60 at around 5.8 seconds on the GT computer tune.

http://s108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/?action=view&current=SDC14658.flv

Hows the butt dyno feel compared to the SOHC motor?

[JC316]

Holy short shifting Batman. I'm sure in dry weather, not short shifting, and not granny shifting, and a proper launch, you could get that 0-60 down much, MUCH lower.
Yeah, I wanted to get the feel for the motor before going to 6K. Gotten MUCH better at launching it too. I will get a better video before too long.

Hows the butt dyno feel compared to the SOHC motor?

WAY more power and I had a pretty damn beefy 2V. The biggest thing is how much more throttle response there is. The 2V is a DOG between 2-3K rpm, the 4v is so much more refined in that range.

[JC316]

Got a better run, still spun like hell on the first try, but the second was better. Short shifted again, I am a bit gun shy after the last motor and I flat cant afford to break it right now lol.

nlrNOs8Qnro

[erocker]

About a hair over 6 seconds. Not bad at all!

Here's a ball licking smiley. No 'rockout' available. (nutlick)

[JC316]

About a hair over 6 seconds. Not bad at all!

Here's a ball licking smiley. No 'rockout' available. (nutlick)

Yep and if I could actually get a decent launch I could get that down to about 5.5-5.7 seconds.... I need wider tires lol. I stared with 100% traction and you can hear it spinning through first and into second. Sucker is a demon when I punch it.

[Wile E]

Quit short shifting you pansy. (r) (nutkick)

[JC316]

Quit short shifting you pansy. (r) (nutkick)

Lol, I know, I know. I don't want to break the SOB though. Once I get it tuned I will be a LOT less skittish about pushing it.

[DaMulta]

Drop that clutch lol

[JC316]

Drop that clutch lol

No traction if I do that. You can't imagine how little it takes to break this sucker loose.

[Wile E]

What kind of tires are you running? Time to get some stickier treads on there methinks.

[DaMulta]

No traction if I do that. You can't imagine how little it takes to break this sucker loose.

What fun is it if your not spinning the tires?:D

[Wile E]

What fun is it if your not spinning the tires?:D

Might be fun as hell, but it sure isn't as fast.

[JC316]

What kind of tires are you running? Time to get some stickier treads on there methinks.

Some type of goodyear 205/55/R16 POS tire that's too freaking small for the car.

[Wile E]

My freakin Sentra has 205's on it. lol. Need to get at least some 235's on there. Kumho usually has some nice sticky tires at decent prices.

[1Kurgan1]

Surprising that has such narrow rims on it, I'm pretty sure my sister 96 3.8 Stang has wider than 6" rims.

[JC316]

My freakin Sentra has 205's on it. lol. Need to get at least some 235's on there. Kumho usually has some nice sticky tires at decent prices.

Yes, I know. It's supposed to have 235/50/R16 on it, but someone put those dinky ass tires on it. I am thinking about getting some 17" cobra R wheels with some 245/45/R17 tires.

[1Kurgan1]

Ah, so it doesnt have small rims, and they had to add sidewall to get that small of a tire on, why would someone do that :/ I would go with the Cobra R rims, they are the sex, always liked those.

[JC316]

Ah, so it doesnt have small rims, and they had to add sidewall to get that small of a tire on, why would someone do that :/ I would go with the Cobra R rims, they are the sex, always liked those.

Mexicans do it, it's a fad around here, no clue as to why.

[General__Cohen*****]

Yep, that's right, the one that I rebuilt back in May. I was showing off, acting like an ass and when I got it back, it was blowing white smoke out the tail pipe. Then it started loosing coolant, then it started smoking worse, and worse. Drained a gallon of coolant in 40 miles. Did compressions tests got the following:

1 - 125PSI
2 - 105PSI
3 - 120PSI
4 - 175PSI
5 - 180PSi
6 - 175PSI
7 - 175PSI
8 - 175PSI

Also have coolant in the exhaust pipe. Gonna throw a Mark VIII motor in it, get a nice boost in power.
That's bad news man sorry for ya. Gotta chuck out old loon boost i9n new muscle.

[1Kurgan1]

Mexicans do it, it's a fad around here, no clue as to why.

Weird, I'm not sure what to say about that, it really doesnt make any sense.

[JC316]

Weird, I'm not sure what to say about that, it really doesnt make any sense.

Yeah, I am not sure either.

Anyway. Here are some pics of her. Just washed and waxed it.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14711.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14712.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14714.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/JC316_2006/Mustang%20GT/4V%20rebuild/SDC14715.jpg

[DaMulta]

You need some white walls!


Very slick mustang, and I'm happy that your in love with your new motor. I'm glad that it switched over without much issue.

[JC316]

You need some white walls!


Very slick mustang, and I'm happy that your in love with your new motor. I'm glad that it switched over without much issue.

NEVER! White walls go on a 56 Cadillac, or an 84 Park Avenue, not a mustang. On a mustang they would be a little (r)(u)

I am happy that it went smoothly too. Was getting sick of driving automatic transmission cars.

[1Kurgan1]

Car looks real nice, those are the same rims my sisters 3.8 has on it, can really tell it has on those 205's.

[JC316]

Car looks real nice, those are the same rims my sisters 3.8 has on it, can really tell it has on those 205's.


Yeah, the 248A package is the GTS. Means that it was the base GT with the least amount of weight. Manual drivers seat (Even the V6 has power standard), base radio, no cruise, 16" wheels, no ABS, no lighted visor mirrors, no fog lamps and no spoiler. There were fewer of them made than cobra's in that year. It's a true X code GT, but it's hard to tell the difference between it and a 6 banger.

[1Kurgan1]

Yeah, it does look pretty base, the only reasons I would assume it's a GT is the rims (seems the 3.8l have those nasty 3 spoke ones) and the dual exhaust. Her car looks dead on like yours in every respect, hers is a loaded 3.8L, think it's just missing leather.

Have you ever got it weighed in? Whats the weight difference suppose to be between that and the GT or even that and the base packaged Cobras? I can't imagine thats its too far over 3000lbs, but then again the 94-96's are a bit heavier so maybe more like 3200lbs.

[JC316]

3278lbs in GT form with the manual. With the DOHC, it will weigh 80lbs less due to being all aluminum.