Revs go crazy!

[MRCL]

I've noticed something strange with my beloved Scooby lately. Whenever the turbo kicks in (3000rpm), the revs go berserk. Meaning in one, two seconds I'm in the red zone already, even in fifth gear. This happens only when I push down the gas pedal too much, if I gently and barely push it down, it acts fairly normal. But that shouldn't be, I mean when I bought it, I could go pedal to the metal in second gear and the revs went up in "normal" speed. I'm kinda clueless whats going on, and searching some Subaru forums as I write this, but maybe one of you petrol heads has an idea?

I'll be heading to a shop soon anyways, but it would be nice to know if its something serious.

[erocker]

If it's a manual transmission I would assume the clutch?

[1Kurgan1]

Going to agree with erocker, sounds like a clutch to me, that or your car got extremely more powerful and your burning out in 5th gear,

[MRCL]

Manual transmission, yes. It started small, like the first time I'd go over 3000rpm it would act up, but then it would act normally. It was in the last two days that I've noticed this.

Theres a Subaru garage nearby, I go say hello there today. Probably the best thing to do.

[JC316]

+3 on the clutch. Only thing that it can be really.

[MRCL]

Damn. I was planning on changing the clutch but not at this time:(

[MRCL]

Well you guys were right. I was at the garage today, told the owner the story (he worked with Subarus since more than 30 years so he knows his stuff) and he said its the clutch. We went for a quick test drive and yeah... I have to replace the clutch. Damnit. Its gonna cost around 3000 bucks :(

[Black Panther]

That sucks man.

I read this too late but here's how to test if it's really the clutch:
Start up the car, push down clutch pedal, engage the 4th gear, and very very very slowly release the clutch pedal.
If the engine stalls the clutch is ok. If it keeps running (even if not smoothly), clutch's kaput.

One trick to avoid clutch repairs is to treat the clutch pedal like it's a hot coal. Press it only when necessary and for no longer than necessary making sure you always push it the whole way down.

That means if you're in traffic, or otherwise waiting to change gear, if it's gonna take long it's better to press the brake pedal and disengage the gear rather than keep your foot on the clutch. Same for when you're uphill. Don't keep the car 'braked' using the 1st gear and clutch if you're going uphill in traffic very slowly!

Also be careful while driving that you don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal and without realizing you are pushing it down even if only a tiny bit. That'll wear it out really fast.

[MRCL]

That sucks man.

I read this too late but here's how to test if it's really the clutch:
Start up the car, push down clutch pedal, engage the 4th gear, and very very very slowly release the clutch pedal.
If the engine stalls the clutch is ok. If it keeps running (even if not smoothly), clutch's kaput.

One trick to avoid clutch repairs is to treat the clutch pedal like it's a hot coal. Press it only when necessary and for no longer than necessary making sure you always push it the whole way down.

That means if you're in traffic, or otherwise waiting to change gear, if it's gonna take long it's better to press the brake pedal and disengage the gear rather than keep your foot on the clutch. Same for when you're uphill. Don't keep the car 'braked' using the 1st gear and clutch if you're going uphill in traffic very slowly!

Also be careful while driving that you don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal and without realizing you are pushing it down even if only a tiny bit. That'll wear it out really fast.

Thanks BP (toast) But I actually do and did all that. As far as I've gathered from various Subaru forums, the generation I have has its problems with the clutch. It still sucks tho lol.

[pbmaster]

Why on earth is it going to cost that much? We just replaced a clutch on a truck here for $100...

[JC316]

That sucks man.

I read this too late but here's how to test if it's really the clutch:
Start up the car, push down clutch pedal, engage the 4th gear, and very very very slowly release the clutch pedal.
If the engine stalls the clutch is ok. If it keeps running (even if not smoothly), clutch's kaput.

One trick to avoid clutch repairs is to treat the clutch pedal like it's a hot coal. Press it only when necessary and for no longer than necessary making sure you always push it the whole way down.

That means if you're in traffic, or otherwise waiting to change gear, if it's gonna take long it's better to press the brake pedal and disengage the gear rather than keep your foot on the clutch. Same for when you're uphill. Don't keep the car 'braked' using the 1st gear and clutch if you're going uphill in traffic very slowly!

Also be careful while driving that you don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal and without realizing you are pushing it down even if only a tiny bit. That'll wear it out really fast.

Almost. When sitting it traffic with the clutch all the way in, the only thing you are wearing is the throw-out bearing.

[MRCL]

Why on earth is it going to cost that much? We just replaced a clutch on a truck here for $100...

1. You can't compare US prices to ours. Especially mechanic stuff.
2. Out of the 2800 I ultimately paid, 1700 are only for the work done. A price of 100 bucks for one working hour is considered absolutely normal here.
3. The clutch itself was 500 bucks.
4. The other 600 bucks were small things that added up, like changing some gears, seals, several fluids etc

All in all those 2800 bucks I paid are fairly normal around here.

[1Kurgan1]

1. You can't compare US prices to ours. Especially mechanic stuff.
2. Out of the 2800 I ultimately paid, 1700 are only for the work done. A price of 100 bucks for one working hour is considered absolutely normal here.
3. The clutch itself was 500 bucks.
4. The other 600 bucks were small things that added up, like changing some gears, seals, several fluids etc

All in all those 2800 bucks I paid are fairly normal around here.

Thats why I usually do work myself, labor costs are usually equal to or greater than parts costs.