Help me solve this clutch problem

[Nick89]

I'll start off by saying I live in Las Vegas. In the summer it averages 110F(44C) I have lived here for 20 years and am used to the heat.

My problem is in the summer my clutch in my 2007 Nissan Versa slips after I have been driving it in normal city traffic for more than thirty minutes. And it only has 25,000 Miles on it. What happens is if I shift to the next gear and then try to accelerate hard the clutch sometimes grabs but then it just starts slipping. I have made sure my foot was nowhere near the clutch pedal when this was happening. This has mostly happened with 2nd and 3rd gears but it has happened once with 5th gear when I was getting on the freeway.

So far this winter my clutch has not slipped at all. This has led me to believe that the clutch is overheating in the summer.

I'm looking for a solution to my clutch slipping in the summer. I don't drive the crap out of my car all the time maybe once or twice a month so I don't think I've worn the clutch out.

Are there any high temperature clutch materials that might work on my 07 Versa?

[twilyth]

I don't know, but I think all late model Jap cars have hydraulic clutches so there isn't anything you can do in terms of shifting if that's true.

Since your engine is probably transverse mounted, my guess is that you are getting tons of heat from the a/c condenser. But again, don't see what you could do about that.

[Nick89]

I don't know, but I think all late model Jap cars have hydraulic clutches so there isn't anything you can do in terms of shifting if that's true.

Since your engine is probably transverse mounted, my guess is that you are getting tons of heat from the a/c condenser. But again, don't see what you could do about that.

Thanks for the reply. =[

[JC316]

When you changed the clutch, did you change the pressure plate too, or just the disc? Did you resurface the flywheel? What brand did you buy? If you didn't change the pressure plate, then the heat might have weakened the springs. If the flywheel wasn't resurfaced, then you could have a problem there.

[Nick89]

When you changed the clutch, did you change the pressure plate too, or just the disc? Did you resurface the flywheel? What brand did you buy? If you didn't change the pressure plate, then the heat might have weakened the springs. If the flywheel wasn't resurfaced, then you could have a problem there.

I haven't changed any part of the clutch assembly yet. Its all factory still.

[twilyth]

What exactly do you mean by "slipping". I think that is probably pretty clear, but it can't hurt to be specific.

Thanks.

[Nick89]

What exactly do you mean by "slipping". I think that is probably pretty clear, but it can't hurt to be specific.

Thanks.

Right after I change gears. say I'm in third now, The clutch pedal is all the way out and my foot is not touching it. I start to accelerate by pushing down the gas pedal, if I push it most of the way or all the way down the car will start to accelerate but then the RPMs start going up way to fast all the way to red line if I do not take my foot off the gas pedal. When that happens the car stops accelerating once the RPMs start to skyrocket(clutch is slipping). When I take my foot off the gas the RPMs sharply decrease back to what ever RPM I would normally be at, at what ever speed I'm doing depending on what gear I in.

[twilyth]

Right after I change gears. say I'm in third now, The clutch pedal is all the way out and my foot is not touching it. I start to accelerate by pushing down the gas pedal, if I push it most of the way or all the way down the car will start to accelerate but then the RPMs start going up way to fast all the way to red line if I do not take my foot off the gas pedal. When that happens the car stops accelerating once the RPMs start to skyrocket(clutch is slipping). When I take my foot off the gas the RPMs sharply decrease back to what ever RPM I would normally be at, at what ever speed I'm doing depending on what gear I in.
I don't know much about manual transmissions except basic operation. To me it sounds like either there is excessive wear on the clutch - which you will get if you tend to rev your engine while engaging the clutch - or the diaphragm springs are weak.

I would go with a worn clutch though.

[JC316]

I haven't changed any part of the clutch assembly yet. Its all factory still.

Well, I am thinking that a stock 4 year old clutch in the stop and go of Vegas, plus the heat means that you are going to be due for a new clutch pretty soon. I know how bad Vegas traffic is, so that 25K is more like 100K of highway travel to a clutch.

[1Kurgan1]

Your clutch is slipping, though on something new thats kinda strange for it to wear that much. Almost sounds like glazing, but at 25k, that also is doubtful, unless it's been glazed for a while. I don't think there are high temp clutches, because, the temp they reach during operation, should be higher than 110F.

[Nick89]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Its really weird though. The clutch has not slipped once since it became winter.

Also Kurgan what is glazed? I'm assumming it is a buildup on the clutch and or pressure plate?

[twilyth]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Its really weird though. The clutch has not slipped once since it became winter.

Also Kurgan what is glazed? I'm assumming it is a buildup on the clutch and or pressure plate?
Very strange. Cold metal contracts but it's hard to imagine it would make that much of a difference.

Does anyone think it could be a bad throw-out bearing?

edit - not sure, but I think glazing means that the surface has been chemically altered by excessive heat causing it to become glass-like - just like you fire glazed pottery to get the glaze to setup properly.

[JC316]

Your clutch is slipping, though on something new thats kinda strange for it to wear that much. Almost sounds like glazing, but at 25k, that also is doubtful, unless it's been glazed for a while. I don't think there are high temp clutches, because, the temp they reach during operation, should be higher than 110F.

Well, the ambient air temp will affect it's performance some, takes longer to cool the clutch with 110*F air than 50*F air. Glazed makes sense except for the cold weather part, it should do it all the time.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Its really weird though. The clutch has not slipped once since it became winter.

Also Kurgan what is glazed? I'm assumming it is a buildup on the clutch and or pressure plate?

Glazing occurs when the clutch heats up and smooths out the friction surface, thus slipping.

Very strange. Cold metal contracts but it's hard to imagine it would make that much of a difference.

Does anyone think it could be a bad throw-out bearing?

No, it wouldn't be the TOB unless it's sticking badly.

[1Kurgan1]

Yeah, glazing should occur at all times, it most likely just needs a replacement. But even with stop and go driving, if it gives out that early, you might want to look into an upgraded clutch of some sort. If I had to drop a trans and subframe every 25k to change a clutch, I would not be happy.

[Nick89]

Yeah, glazing should occur at all times, it most likely just needs a replacement. But even with stop and go driving, if it gives out that early, you might want to look into an upgraded clutch of some sort. If I had to drop a trans and subframe every 25k to change a clutch, I would not be happy.

:mad: Tell me about it.

I'm going to look for some type of racing clutch material or even just something with high durability.

[MRCL]

I had the exact same problem with my Impreza. Only it was in the winter. When accelerating, the the turbo should kick in, the revs went all the way to the red line. Only if I let the gas pedal go they went back. Also, 4th gear was unuseable. My mechanic swapped the whole clutch :/ Disc was teared, synchroniser rings were bad and some other stuff. It looked miserable, like from a scrapyard really.

[Bundy]

I think your clutch is as you suspect - dead. You need to fix it before it will not work at all.

[95viper]

I'll start of by saying, not because you do it, but, don't ride the clutch pedal (rest you foot on it).

Anyway, you could replace the clutch with a high pressure pressure plate, and, always have the release bearing replaced, as well as the rest of the clutch pack, when you get that work done on it. You can, also, go with ceramic or other high temp material type after-market clutch plate. You will probable notice the difference, if you race around a lot.

However, before doing all that... flush the hydraulic fluid out the lines and replace it with a good high temp replacement.

The fluid could have gotten water(moisture) contamination or just have broken down from heat and\or age. If there is an adjustment possible check the freeplay.

Check for any leaks from the clutch area (transmission or engine), like make sure there is not any fluids leaking onto it; like, a coolant leak in the summer(from connections, heads, and such) that doesn't occur in the cooler temps.

If it was glazed or wore, the slippage should occur no matter the temps.

Then, there is this:

Quote from NissanVersa.org:

"Q) The clutch on my brand new Versa seems to be slipping, I push the gas and it revs up but the car doesn’t move quickly!
A) There has been a problem found in some Versa SL’s with manual transmissions, relating to the cruise control system. Take your Versa in to your Nissan dealer and have them adjust or replace the ASCD switch in the cruise control system. It has been found that on hot days, this switch MAY move, and cause the hydraulic clutch to disengage prematurely. So far, all vehicles with this fix applied have remained trouble-free." (http://www.nissanversa.org/own-faq.shtml)

Google turned up a few clutch problems related to this. (http://www.google.com/search?client=opera&rls=en&q=nissan+versa+clutch+slippage&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest):)

[1Kurgan1]

:mad: Tell me about it.

I'm going to look for some type of racing clutch material or even just something with high durability.

I wouldn't go to crazy with it, just look for a mild upgrade, you go to far and the clutch will be on/off too fast for city driving. But then again, I'm not sure whats out there for a Versa, maybe check some Nissan forums and see what they suggest.

[twilyth]

Then, there is this:

Quote from NissanVersa.org:

"Q) The clutch on my brand new Versa seems to be slipping, I push the gas and it revs up but the car doesn’t move quickly!
A) There has been a problem found in some Versa SL’s with manual transmissions, relating to the cruise control system. Take your Versa in to your Nissan dealer and have them adjust or replace the ASCD switch in the cruise control system. It has been found that on hot days, this switch MAY move, and cause the hydraulic clutch to disengage prematurely. So far, all vehicles with this fix applied have remained trouble-free." (http://www.nissanversa.org/own-faq.shtml)

Google turned up a few clutch problems related to this. (http://www.google.com/search?client=opera&rls=en&q=nissan+versa+clutch+slippage&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest):)
excellent work viper!!! (toast)

[Nick89]

I'll start of by saying, not because you do it, but, don't ride the clutch pedal (rest you foot on it).

Anyway, you could replace the clutch with a high pressure pressure plate, and, always have the release bearing replaced, as well as the rest of the clutch pack, when you get that work done on it. You can, also, go with ceramic or other high temp material type after-market clutch plate. You will probable notice the difference, if you race around a lot.

However, before doing all that... flush the hydraulic fluid out the lines and replace it with a good high temp replacement.

The fluid could have gotten water(moisture) contamination or just have broken down from heat and\or age. If there is an adjustment possible check the freeplay.

Check for any leaks from the clutch area (transmission or engine), like make sure there is not any fluids leaking onto it; like, a coolant leak in the summer(from connections, heads, and such) that doesn't occur in the cooler temps.

If it was glazed or wore, the slippage should occur no matter the temps.

Then, there is this:

Quote from NissanVersa.org:

"Q) The clutch on my brand new Versa seems to be slipping, I push the gas and it revs up but the car doesn’t move quickly!
A) There has been a problem found in some Versa SL’s with manual transmissions, relating to the cruise control system. Take your Versa in to your Nissan dealer and have them adjust or replace the ASCD switch in the cruise control system. It has been found that on hot days, this switch MAY move, and cause the hydraulic clutch to disengage prematurely. So far, all vehicles with this fix applied have remained trouble-free." (http://www.nissanversa.org/own-faq.shtml)

Google turned up a few clutch problems related to this. (http://www.google.com/search?client=opera&rls=en&q=nissan+versa+clutch+slippage&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest):)

My clutch fluid is also my brake fluid. So flushing the hydraulic fluid would also require me to flush the brakes.

[twilyth]

My clutch fluid is also my brake fluid. So flushing the hydraulic fluid would also require me to flush the brakes.

Wait a minute. "Clutch fluid"? Are we talking manual or select shift here?

edit: OK, nevermind. You must meant the hydraulic shifter fluid. Sorry.

[Nick89]

Wait a minute. "Clutch fluid"? Are we talking manual or select shift here?

edit: OK, nevermind. You must meant the hydraulic shifter fluid. Sorry.

Its a manual trans, I have a hydraulic operated clutch. The Hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir is also the Master brake cylinder reservoir.

[95viper]

My clutch fluid is also my brake fluid. So flushing the hydraulic fluid would also require me to flush the brakes.

In that case... yep.
If it is contaminated or anything you need to flush(bleed) the whole system.

Look for a service manual on-line or a how-to for that car.
And, DO NOT spill the fluid on any painted surface.

Generally, the procedure is simple, but you may want to look at a manual before proceeding, as the newer system have electronics (sensors and switches) you may wish to be aware of.
Just in-case, you may need to dis-connect or move something; or, a special procedure is required.

And, remember, if you do attempt this yourself, safety first!
You will need a friend of moderate intelligence to assist (someone that will tolerate the yelling and cussing, that is usually associated with auto repair).

Warning: Girl friends and wife's are only to be used in an emergency!

Good-luck:)

[pepsi71ocean]

In that case... yep.
If it is contaminated or anything you need to flush(bleed) the whole system.

Look for a service manual on-line or a how-to for that car.
And, DO NOT spill the fluid on any painted surface.

Generally, the procedure is simple, but you may want to look at a manual before proceeding, as the newer system have electronics (sensors and switches) you may wish to be aware of.
Just in-case, you may need to dis-connect or move something; or, a special procedure is required.

And, remember, if you do attempt this yourself, safety first!
You will need a friend of moderate intelligence to assist (someone that will tolerate the yelling and cussing, that is usually associated with auto repair).

Warning: Girl friends and wife's are only to be used in an emergency!

Good-luck:)

Now I READ thais:D

to bad it wasn't before i asked the g/f to move the wrench under the injector line, LOl j/k

[twilyth]

Now I READ thais:D

to bad it wasn't before i asked the g/f to move the wrench under the injector line, LOl j/k

Well, if she knows what a wrench and an injector line are, you should worship her since she is far ahead of her gender. (toast)