Just changed my oil, time for Synthetic?

[mlee49]

So I was changing the oil in both my cars(04 Honda Accord and 03 GMC Envoy) and since the Envoy has 111k miles I was told that 'High Mileage' oil is recommended but a change to synthetic would help. I'm no gear head, but I'm thinking that Synthetic is designed specifically for higher mileage cars? :confused:

So should I make the change? I'm considering keeping the car for quite some time, so would it be in my best interest? Anyone else change their own oil?

BTW, I use Castrol GTX FTW! :cool:

[erocker]

No, you don't want to start putting synthetic in a high mileage car. While synthetic does offer less friction, making less friction in a high mileage engine will result in compression loss and a greater chance of blowing it apart. I've seen this happen personally at my shop several times. Use regular 5w30 and change it every 3 months or 3000 miles. Also, if you haven't done so, change your timing belt.

[mlee49]

I would have no idea how to change my timing belt, but thank you for the help.

[Wile E]

No, you don't want to start putting synthetic in a high mileage car. While synthetic does offer less friction, making less friction in a high mileage engine will result in compression loss and a greater chance of blowing it apart. I've seen this happen personally at my shop several times. Use regular 5w30 and change it every 3 months or 3000 miles. Also, if you haven't done so, change your timing belt.

It depends strictly on the condition of the engine, and how much wear it has taken. 111k is not high for many cars, especially if it was well maintained. If it is well maintained, and not showing signs of wear, then switching to synthetic is perfectly fine. If he's still able to use the factory recommended weight, without having any additional oil loss between changes, his car is a perfect candidate for synthetic.

Synthetic will not ever cause a car to blow up, that's just a wives' tale. Less friction does not result in compression loss. Too thin an oil will result in compression loss, regardless if it's synthetic or natural. The only thing you have to worry about is if you have leaks or are burning oil. Synthetic is awfully expensive to be trying to burn, or spreading on your driveway. lol.

I use synthetic in all of my vehicles, one of which is a 160k mi Civic, and have never, in all my years as both an owner, and a mechanic, seen a single case where an engine dying has synthetic oil to blame when the proper weight has been chosen.

http://www.oilsandlube.com/myths.htm

[erocker]

It depend strictly on the condition of the engine, and how much wear it has taken. 111k is not high for many cars, especially if it was well maintained. If it is well maintained, and not showing signs of wear, then switching to synthetic is perfectly fine. If he's still able to use the factory recommended weight, without having any additional oil loss between changes, his car is a perfect candidate for synthetic.

Synthetic will not ever cause a car to blow up, that's just a wives' tale. Less friction does not result in compression loss. Too thin an oil will result in compression loss, regardless if it's synthetic or natural. The only thing you have to worry about is if you have leaks or are burning oil. Synthetic is awfully expensive to be trying to burn, or spreading on your driveway. lol.

I use synthetic in all of my vehicles, one of which is a 160k mi Civic, and have never, in all my years as both an owner, and a mechanic, seen a single case where an engine dying has synthetic oil to blame when the proper weight has been chosen.

http://www.oilsandlube.com/myths.htm

You are correct, but I can recall two customers who told me they switched to synthetic before thier engine blew. One engine was an older GM 3300 V6 and it most likely had over 220,000 miles, the other was some old V8. Most likely with both thier were problems before the synthetic was put in. I also see a lot of places around here that sell sytnthetic 0w30 Mobil 1. I bet many of those that use it are confusing it for 10w30. If your engine is an older engine with a lot of built up carbon in it synthetic isn't really worth it as you will most likely have to change your oil as often as regular oil. My Jeep, which has a clean V8 has had Synthetic run in it for three years now (I get a discount ;)) and I change it every 6000 miles. Really, 7-8K because I'm lazy.

[Wile E]

Sadly, the way I drive, I still have to change my oil every 3-4k when using synthetic. If I use conventional, they start to run rough at 2k. lol

[mlee49]

What brand people? As stated before Castrol GTX and Bosche filters for me :)

[Wile E]

Mobil 1 is what I generally use for synthetic.

Although I prefer Royal Purple or Redline, but those are more expensive, and harder to come by locally. Have to be ordered online.

[pepsi71ocean]

You are correct, but I can recall two customers who told me they switched to synthetic before thier engine blew. One engine was an older GM 3300 V6 and it most likely had over 220,000 miles, the other was some old V8. Most likely with both thier were problems before the synthetic was put in. I also see a lot of places around here that sell sytnthetic 0w30 Mobil 1. I bet many of those that use it are confusing it for 10w30. If your engine is an older engine with a lot of built up carbon in it synthetic isn't really worth it as you will most likely have to change your oil as often as regular oil. My Jeep, which has a clean V8 has had Synthetic run in it for three years now (I get a discount ;)) and I change it every 6000 miles. Really, 7-8K because I'm lazy.

You are correct.

If you've been driving around with regular oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from regular (mineral) oils and leave them floating around your engine = not good, WHy is it not good, because it cloggs your filters, oil galleries and can cause some serious issues. I would suggest a flushing oil first, because it helps the engine along.

SO IF you are going to go from regular to synthetic oil you must take it very easy on the engine, use a multi form oil, or else it will not adapt to the new synthetic oil, and if you don;'t you'll end up like my muddy with a blown powerplant. His powerjoke blew 500 miles after the oil change. Typically the first 2,000 miles you must baby the engine, to prevent it from just eating its self.

[mlee49]

Bump for every 3000 miles, ok well prolly like 5000 but I'm good with that.

Changed the air filter in my 03 GMC Envoy, it needed it BAD:

http://img.techpowerup.org/100124/2010-01-24 12.31.51.jpg

[DirectorC]

Castrol GTX High Mileage. We've been using it for years in my family, our old mechanic and my new mechanic recommended it, yadda yadda. It's good stuff.

Also, one thing that people have a misconception about is 'clean' oil. I was happy to find out about this recently. The dirtier an oil is when it comes out of your engine, the cleaner it has left your engine. If your oil comes out clean, it's not doing its job.

[Jizzler]

Hell yeah! Even use it in my riding mover ;)

[jmcslob]

I use whatever WalMarts premium service puts in Castrol I think......

Can't beat a $25 oil change and car cleaning..

That reminds me I'm 1.5 months past due for an oil change but millage wise I'm 2 oil changes ahead 10.500 miles and 5 oil changes next will be the 6th will that hurt my engine waiting so long

[JC316]

I use whatever WalMarts premium service puts in Castrol I think......

Can't beat a $25 oil change and car cleaning..

That reminds me I'm 1.5 months past due for an oil change but millage wise I'm 2 oil changes ahead 10.500 miles and 5 oil changes next will be the 6th will that hurt my engine waiting so long


Ewww wal-mart.... I used to use them too, but recently their prices have skyrocketed. Doesn't help that my dinky 4.6L uses 7 freaking quarts. Nah, that 3 month, 3,000 miles is BS unless you are driving a taxi. Most oils will go 5,000-7,000 miles no problem.

[Jizzler]

^ My wife use to work at a Walmart in the cash office so she saw how much was paid out because of mistakes by TLE. SCARY.


jmcslob, Why all the changes and what are you driving? Seems a bit excessive.

[T3hPwn3r3r]

I use 10W30, always have, never had any trouble, and it doesn't get too hot here, runs great when cold. Is this too light a weight of oil?

[Wile E]

Ewww wal-mart.... I used to use them too, but recently their prices have skyrocketed. Doesn't help that my dinky 4.6L uses 7 freaking quarts. Nah, that 3 month, 3,000 miles is BS unless you are driving a taxi. Most oils will go 5,000-7,000 miles no problem.

Or you happen to drive like me. lol.

[Polaris573]

I use high mileage synthetic in my CL. Don't know if it's good/bad or not. Oil seems pretty clear even after almost 4,000 miles, but that could just be the filter.

I started changing my own oil when Wal-Mart only half-filled my oil and then gave me my car back, all after I had to wait an hour. Never going back. Hate wal-mart for so many things hate hate hate hate hate.

http://img.techpowerup.org/100125/256px-Kefka_Hate.png

I also just want to say the following to anyone that does. (Wal-Mart does)

DON'T USE FRAM OIL FILTERS. PAY FOR A GOOD ONE IT'S WORTH THE FEW EXTRA DOLLARS.

[mlee49]

Whats wrong w/Fram? Thats what I've been using for years.

[JC316]

Or you happen to drive like me. lol.

I really don't think it matters about how fast you are driving so much as the stop and go crap and having that engine heat nearly all day. Sure you will have your high RPM's that will help wear it out, but at best, you will be above 3K rpm for 10% of your drive unless you have insane gears.

I usually change mine out ever 5-7K depending.

[DirectorC]

Whats wrong w/Fram? Thats what I've been using for years.

Apparently Fram's filters break apart and ruin engines from time to time.

[mlee49]

Really? Articles? Sources? Recommendations?

[Polaris573]

Really? Articles? Sources? Recommendations?

Do it yourself. I'm lazy and it's not that important to me that you believe me. They're cheaply made you can see it in pictures if you look around or tear one apart yourself and compare it to a better filter.

On visible inspection my oil stays clearer longer. No I'm not running a fram in my car just so I can take comparison shots of my oil and prove it lol.

[DirectorC]

If you're running American just get Motorcraft. Ford OEM and 3 bucks at Wal-Mart.

[Wile E]

I really don't think it matters about how fast you are driving so much as the stop and go crap and having that engine heat nearly all day. Sure you will have your high RPM's that will help wear it out, but at best, you will be above 3K rpm for 10% of your drive unless you have insane gears.

I usually change mine out ever 5-7K depending.

No, I floor it constantly. Trust me, I am exceptionally hard on drivetrains.

[Polaris573]

Okay I lied I had the page bookmarked so I could even lazily provide you with at least some info.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

IT doesn't say frams are bad if I remember it correctly, but it's a good place to start your research if you care to.

[Wile E]

They have multiple lines of filters now. It's their cheapest line that's not the greatest of quality. Before they had multiple lines, fram made good filters. Now, just buy the next model up, and you're good to go.

[mlee49]

Do it yourself. I'm lazy and it's not that important to me that you believe me. They're cheaply made you can see it in pictures if you look around or tear one apart yourself and compare it to a better filter.

On visible inspection my oil stays clearer longer. No I'm not running a fram in my car just so I can take comparison shots of my oil and prove it lol.


If you dont come back with comparison pics and a full 3 page report I will never be able to respect your word again. :p

[Polaris573]

If you dont come back with comparison pics and a full 3 page report I will never be able to respect your word again. :p

Oh noes. I'll rush to wal-mart to buy a fram and I'll get back to you in three months. lol

[Polaris573]

lol. I went out to the garage to get a soda and took a picture of my dipstick while I was out there as a way to continue the joke, but when I got back inside I realized I didn't have a memory card in the camera. Not going back outside to do it again though.

[Steevo]

Fram is the cheapest piece of crap filter you can purchase. I use cummins made fleetguard or equivilant synthetic media high grade filters. I ahve watched racers use fram or other crap filters, and seen them blow up under the spikes and surges, or racers put on clamps to keep the shell intact.


I have many brands of filters cut apart at work. Use napa above Fram as they are made by Wix, and the ultimate is either a synthetic media Fleetguard, or the baldwin filters are OK.


If your engine oil comes out clean that is a problem, it means the detergents aren't suspending the contaminants (less than 30 micron for a standard filter, or less than 10 microns for a good synthetic media). Get a q-tip and run it inside of your valve cover where your oil fil plug goes, inside the engine. Then compare it to your oil before a change. If it isn't the same color or close your are leaving sludge behind.

A quick cleanup is to use 10% of your crankcase fill volume of standard ATF for the last 100 miles or so to eat the sludge.

[Jizzler]

They use Fram:
http://www.theburnerishot.com/photo/IcyHotStuntaz.jpg

Don't be a stunta! ;)

[T3hPwn3r3r]

I've always used Wix filters, if it's good enough for the American military, it's good enough for my cars :P

[Wile E]

Fram is the cheapest piece of crap filter you can purchase. I use cummins made fleetguard or equivilant synthetic media high grade filters. I ahve watched racers use fram or other crap filters, and seen them blow up under the spikes and surges, or racers put on clamps to keep the shell intact.


I have many brands of filters cut apart at work. Use napa above Fram as they are made by Wix, and the ultimate is either a synthetic media Fleetguard, or the baldwin filters are OK.


If your engine oil comes out clean that is a problem, it means the detergents aren't suspending the contaminants (less than 30 micron for a standard filter, or less than 10 microns for a good synthetic media). Get a q-tip and run it inside of your valve cover where your oil fil plug goes, inside the engine. Then compare it to your oil before a change. If it isn't the same color or close your are leaving sludge behind.

A quick cleanup is to use 10% of your crankcase fill volume of standard ATF for the last 100 miles or so to eat the sludge.
Fram's cheapest line, yes. Their line just one step up, not so much.

[JC316]

Only time I use Fram is if they don't have anything else and then I use the tough guard line. I mainly use Bosch filters.

[mlee49]

Thanks for the help guys, lots of good details here. I'll go to the Napa store, they need the business anyways.


They use Fram:
http://www.theburnerishot.com/photo/IcyHotStuntaz.jpg

Don't be a stunta! ;)

Damn it! I was gonna go buy a Supra today!

[Papahyooie]

I went out to the garage to get a soda and took a picture of my dipstick


lolz